“Southern (Tunisian) Gardens”, 1919, by Paul Klee
“Sidi Bou Said Pictures”, 2008, by Kathryn Darrow
Do you see the connection between the painting and the pictures? I think I do. Paul Klee certainly did. He was interested in color both empirically and emotionally but his trip to Tunisia was a turning point where he discovered the intensity of color and the southern light. In Tunisia he discovered color as a rainbow. Now I get it.
Here’s another painting of Tunisia by Paul Klee, “Red and Yellow Houses in Tunis”, 1914. Why didn’t he paint the blue and white houses that are so pervasive? One art critic has a theory about this.
So now on to Carthage!
So here’s our air-conditioned Fiat Punto Classic and its driver, Bill, who drove us around the ruins of the once great ancient city of Carthage that is now scattered over a large area in an exclusive suburb of Tunis. Remember how Carthage was established by the Phoenecians and first destroyed and then rebuilt by Rome? Here’s what it looked like then.
After the Roman Empire fell, the Vandals and Byzantines both ruled Carthage and then there was the Arab conquest and arrival of Islam, followed by the Ottoman Turks and the French Protectorate until 1956, not to mention that in 1943 it was the site for World War II battles where the Allies (British and American) lost more than 15,000 men. There’s a US War Cemetery near Carthage and Commonwealth Cemeteries throughout Tunisia.
The surviving ruins are mostly Roman. Here’s what it looks like now.
This is Byrsa Hill with amazing views to the Tunis Gulf and the ancient Punic (Phoenecian) port far below.
Housed in the former French cathedral seminary is the Musee de Carthage.
There were the usual amphora and pottery and sculpture.
But the highlight was two magnificent 4th century BCE Punic (Phoenecian) sarcophagi of a reclining man and woman.
A short drive to the east were the refined Roman villas.
Further down the road were the Antonine Baths with the sea on one side and the security wall of the President’s house on the other. You can see the red Tunisian flag.
A short drive away is the chilling Sanctuary of Tophet.
In 1921 French archaeologists uncovered a sacrificial site and burial ground where it’s believed Cathaginian children were sacrificed to the deities Baal Hammon and Tanit.
On that somber note we headed back to our car and our hotel.
The next day we headed inland to Kairouan–the fourth holiest site in Islam!
I liked the pottery.
So cool thanks
I just returned from Europe and on the plane, an elderly woman talked about Tunisia. She said that it was her favourite travel spot–the accomodations were more than reasonable, everything was clean and it was a safe country to travel through….are these your thoughts?
I would appreciate hearing from you, as I am considering this country as a travel destination.
Sue
Susan , I travelled on my own across Tunisia in my little Fiesta a few years ago ( i was in my forties ) and no harm befell me ! It is a wonderful place , and I was befriended by locals who took me in , fed me and heaped their generous hospitality on me ………. the true face of Islam .I have returned again and again ……..I would love to buy a second home there and possibly retire there . I love the country and its people, and i am sure you would love it too .
tunisia, mistério e facínio com sua milenar história
daqueles que cruzavam o deserto e em fogueiras
noturnas contavam contos de 1001 noites no frescor de perfumes exalados por sua flora na
suave noite dos tempos e dos templos perfumados
pelos incensos de suas crenças
Good question about the blue and white! I found Paul Klee ‘s later painting called Southern (Tunisian) Gardens 1919 less sympathetic than the paintings by Macke and Klee painted after their first trip. Red and Yellow Houses in Tunis 1914 was really lovely, and possibly just what the market wanted at that time.